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The stunning white lake, Lago Bianco, just below the summit, on the Bormio side of the pass. |
First introduced in 1960, the pass has made seven appearances in the Italian Tour, the last just months ago, when Movistar rider Nairo Quintana won the stage 16 race over the twin passes, Gavia and Stelvio, amid freezing temperatures and falling snow. As horrendous as this year’s conditions were, the route was at least able to have been used; unlike 1984, 1989 and then again, in 2013, when it had to be re-routed due to bad weather. In last year’s stage 19 race, riders instead had to head east from Ponte di Legno, over a new 160-kilometre route that included the lower-altitude climbs of the Passo del Tonale (1,883m) and Passo Castrin (1,706m).

The Refugio Bonetta
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But starting at more than 1,200 metres it doesn’t take long for the cold air and wind to bite; and bite it does, especially once you reach the pass’s exposed slopes. With just four kilometres remaining, the steepness of the road disappears, affording the rider the opportunity – providing they’re not besieged by blinding hail – to soak up the most stunning views imaginable.
On reaching the top of Gavia’s 2,621 metre summit, Roz - who had as usual, walked up part of the way - met me for lunch inside the very warm and secure Rifugio Bonetta. Overlooking the Lago Bianco, or White Lake, encircled by the colossal Corno dei Tre Signori precipice above, it no doubt receives plenty of visitors. The warmth of a fire and two bowls of hearty soup made leaving difficult, especially with the near-freezing temperature outside, but the gathering grey clouds threatened rain. It became definitely time to lose some altitude.

Once down into the valley, I soon discovered the SS42 road that led me towards our three night’s accommodation at the ski-resort village of Temù. Nestled in the Val Camonica - a world heritage site - and just a short distance from Ponte di Legno, it seemed the perfect location to have a short day or two’s rest.
Somehow though, I couldn’t bear the idea of coming this far without visiting the Passo del Mortirolo. Added to this was the thought that I’d only climbed Gavia from one side. And worse still – and my good ‘mate’ Lore would testify to this - it was the easy side. That evening, my head lying uneasily on my pillow, I could hear Lore’s words ringing in my ear; “Just not good enough mate”.
Books by Mark Krieger:
‘High Spain Drifter’ is available on Amazon , Barnes and Noble, Booktopia and other online bookstores.
‘Lycra, Lattes and the Long Way Round’ is available on Amazon, Book Depository, Barnes and Noble, Kobo Books
Both books are also available at local bookshops on the Mornington Peninsula: @ Rosebud Bookbarn and @ La Brocante
“Ride as much or as little, as long or as short as you feel. But
ride”.
Eddy Merckx, Belgian road cycling legend