The view of Cape Saint Vincent from Sagres fortress. |
The statue of Henry the Navigator in Sagres. |
Less than an hour’s ride from Carrapateira is the seaside town of Sagres, and its’ twin promontory, Cabo de São Vicente (Cape Saint Vincent). Seemingly isolated but never lonely, this ‘Sacred Place’ or Promontorium Sacrum as it was named by the Romans, has had a mystical quality about it since ancient times when settlers became drawn by the geographic location and dramatic landscape. Historically connected to the early Portuguese Age of Discovery, it was here that Henry the Navigator created his own fortified town (Vila do Infante) and a nautical school that became dedicated to the teachings of astronomy, cartography and shipbuilding.
A Portuguese national monument, Henry’s original 15th
century Fortaleza de Sagres (Sagres
Fortress) was almost destroyed as a result of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th
century attacks along the southern coasts of the Iberian Peninsula. Partially
remodelled over the next two centuries it was again reduced to rubble, this
time by a resultant tsunami, caused by a catastrophic earthquake in 1755.
Restored to its present day appearance by the end of the 18th
century, its bare, hefty front wall separates the mainland from the headland.
Atypically designed, its remaining three sides are protected by 60 metre
monster cliffs underneath. Inside, a small number of buildings pepper the otherwise desolate
landscape, including a former monastery, a 14th century chapel and a
multimedia centre, which not only provides an absorbing account of Henry’s life
and the role he played in Portugal’s Age of Discovery, but a half-hour break
from the virtual shadeless heat outside.
A cannon in the Fortaleza de Sagres. |
The most intriguing spectacle of all is the Rosa dos Ventos (Wind Rose), a giant
geometrical design believed to be a mariner’s compass. Not discovered until the
early 20th century, this 43 metre-diameter circular stone pattern,
with its 32 spokes, is another historical landmark attributed to the
inventiveness of Henry.
Just as fascinating, though perhaps more identifiable is the
view of Cape Saint Vincent. Europe’s most south-westerly point, it evidently
owes its name to the martyred Spanish priest ‘Vincent’, whose remains were
transported here to protect them from the invading Moors. Once a popular place
for pilgrims on foot, its steadfast red lighthouse today guards one of the
world’s busiest shipping lanes.
The Wind Rose inside the fort. |
Besides its beaches, the
dramatic coastal scenery and its history, Sagres remains untainted by the rapid
increase of tourism in the Algarve region. Like Fisterra, you only need to
visit its harbour during late afternoon to experience its ‘end-of-the-world’
atmosphere. Just the same, its comparatively lesser tourist numbers, along with
a permanent population of less than two thousand, provides sufficient patronage
for its numerous restaurants serving traditional Portuguese food, including,
not surprisingly, a wide variety of fresh fish.
One of the traditions Roz and I
looked forward to most, was having a couvert,
or appetizer brought to our table at the beginning of the meal. Similar to the
Spanish custom of serving tapas, an assortment of tantalizing and inexpensive
produce, including bread, assorted cheeses and an olive oil mixture for
immersing the bread into, is laid out in front of you to consume; should you
choose. And not once, did we pass up the opportunity. Regularly accompanied by a pitcher of dark-red sangria, it was another thing we’d miss once
again across the border.
Books by Mark
Krieger:
‘High Spain Drifter’ is available on Amazon , Barnes and Noble, Booktopia and other online bookstores.
‘Lycra, Lattes and the Long Way Round’ is available on Amazon, Book Depository, Barnes and Noble, Kobo Books
Both books are also available at local bookshops on the Mornington Peninsula: @ Rosebud Bookbarn and @ La Brocante
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